Bloggeando

notes from the road

Month: June 2014

Lombok Blues

DSCF4701-2

Welcome to Kuta.

Brace for crappy roads, crappier food. Loads of flies, child vendors pestering at every corner and restaurant table. No hiding.

Watch out for machetes, flying out at night from the side of the dark road.

Look out for pristine beaches, electric turquoise water and glossy skies.

Wind blowing from the cliff tops where you can see the start and end of the world.

Endless views from coastal towers.

Keep your eyes peeled for big bandaids and Ibuprofen – better yet, stock up before you come.

You wont find them here.

Keep cool when mini mosquitos bite and gigantic, prehistoric geckos piss and poop on white sheets.

Bullies from above, grinning down mischievously from the thatched ceiling, their home.

Listen up for eager birds, chirping relentlessly all morning on our pillow.

View disgruntled water buffalo herder boys, slapping Johnny on the butt when no charity is offered.

Cool breezes and soft sun.

Catch a blast of obnoxiously loud motorbikes flying by, kicking up dirt and egos.

“Fucking Hardcore” Lombok surfer boys frontin’, skinny-tough.

Brown chests blazing, menacing glares followed up by big, generous smiles.

A surprise non-attack.

“Brother, it’s all good. Brother, come to my house and see my baby. We are having his hair cutting ceremony tomorrow, brother. Brother, please come.”

Invitations extended, and a one week old baby suckles her mother’s breast as she lays supine on the floor, hot and complacent, unaffected by our presence.

Encounter over trafficked streets – destination nowhere.

Forgotten mongrels strolling the streets – swinging heavy teats down the main drag, searching for scraps with lonely eyes.

“Is this a spice or a bug in this dish?” The great unknown.

Better to avoid inspection of suspected legs and antennae, push the mystery object aside and continue eating.

It’s all just protein anyway.

Revel in strange findings, like surprisingly strong internet, and crunchy seeds in your bananas.

Experience live music, cover songs from Oklahoma filling the dusty air of this island village.

Eat an aptly named “cosadilla” – as in, “que cosa did I just eat?!”

An odd bunch of tourists.

Oldies and youngn’s doing who knows what in this ramshackle and dusty town.

Blaring mosques sing pitchy off-tune prayers, while the Hindu brothers dress up, sharp and dazzling as they scoot off to their flower filled temples far out of town.

Celebrate expert sarong haggling even if the locals fume and fumble angrily.

“Why did we pay more than a tourist?!”, they cry out, demanding justice as I stroll down the beach, triumphant, laying my new shiny sarong on the sand.

Magnum bars keep us happy – sweet victory with each creamy bite.

The constant search for the next edible meal, hopeless optimism.

Warung to warung, hunting for a pot of gold at the end of this Lombok rainbow.

Doesn’t exist.

Flies abundant, fly heaven.

Don’t laugh too big, or one might find a new home inside your mouth – just sayin’.

HBO in the hotel room. Big score!

But Keanu at his best is still the absolute worst.


 

My Lombok blues are skies and seas, frowns and cries, love and dust. My Lombok blues are actually purples and pinks, greens and browns, red and orange. Here are some pics of my Lombok blues:

Appearances can be deceiving.

IMG_8428

And, sometimes they are exactly as they seem.

DSCF5288-2

Not too shabby.

DSCF4932-2

Another boring sunset..

DSCF5140-2

a surprise around each corner

DSCF5483-2

Lombok blues at their best

secret beach close to tanjung an

A Day in Bhutan, Tiger’s Nest

DSCF1349-2

Tiger’s Nest Monastery 

Ever since we arrived, I have been blown away, completely captivated by the land and people of this tiny country tucked inside the Himalayan Mountains. Our guide, “Sonam,” means good luck and so far he lives up to his strong name. He is wonderful. Quiet and gentle, with a sense of humor and easy disposition. He is 25 years old but with the maturity and wise gaze of someone twice his age. An old soul.

Today we hiked to Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Wow. What a remarkable moment in my life! I couldn’t help but weep, just broke into tears with a sense of awe, complete and utter humility at the massive accomplishment of beauty, spirit, and love that this special place embodies.

The monk greeted us, kindly welcoming us inside with his deep and thoughtful eyes. He spoke softly but clearly, and I hung on his every word.

“Welcome. Please come in and sit. You do not need to be Buddhist to pray here. We are all together, every faith and religion is welcome in this holy place.”

We enter and sit before the strong, imposing statue of Guru Rinpoche, their most revered deity. He rests, poised and monumental in front of me. My bare feet are cold against the solid wood floor. I sense the light mountain air quietly still inside the small room.

I feel tiny and whole all at once. My eyes brim with salty tears, not fully understanding why but completely lost in the moment. Gratitude overwhelms me.

I wish I could have let myself go completely, cry out in joy and appreciation of this moment. But there were others in the room, and I quickly gained composure. How I would have loved to spend the day, several of them in fact, meditating, praying, giving thanks for my incredible life and luck! Wishing the same for others.

It was a moment to remember forever.

No photos are allowed inside the temple walls. No bother, as my camera could never justly capture the rich colors of the mural walls, the remarkable faces of the protective deities, the soft glow of the burning butter candles, or the prayer wheels spinning.  What I hope to remember forever is the feeling of immense hope, of joy, of peace, that I felt inside those walls and that continues to grow and follow me.

Tomorrow is another day. We must wake at 4:30 am for a special blessing in the dzong, the village square. So off I go, to sleep in this chilly old farmhouse. Layered with heavy blankets, we sleep on the floor. Mountain dogs are barking outside, ferocious and wild. Our weary bones are warm again from the hot stone bath and local fare – butter tea, chili and cheese, dinner in the delightfully tattered kitchen with a couple of monks.

Just a another day in Bhutan.

Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress, subduing demons and meditating in this holy place that is now called Tiger’s Nest Monastery. My ascent on two feet was not as fantastic, but no less magical.

DSCF1343-2

Tiger's Nest at every angle

Tiger’s Nest at every angle

A vigilant young caretaker, curious as we pass

IMG_7984

More lucky charms along the way

Passing by

Passing by

Our farmhouse stay

the digs…

DSCF1503-2

Greeted to some grains and butter tea upon arrival. Loving the decor of this farmhouse, and the butter tea tastes, well…..like salty butter water. Then dinner in the kitchen with some faithful friends.

Our unforgettable Bhutanese hot stone bath

© 2024 Bloggeando

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑