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notes from the road

Month: May 2014

George Town, Jewel of Penang

I love George Town.

Crazy characters, colors bursting, loud and busy with laughter and yelling. People smile here. They look at you and stare, interested and amused.

My type of place.

We only just arrived, but have already had several encounters with the people of this city. They seem eager to chat, to share and ask questions of us too. How I’ve missed that, and am so happy to feel connected to these curious people.

The buildings are beautiful – decayed and run down in the most graceful way, full of stories and history. Tiny alleys filled with secrets. Shops inside spaces you never knew existed, packed with endless items and trinkets, foods, spices, electrical parts. Bold, unapologetic colors that widen eyes.  It’s chaotic yet serene.

I like the pace.

It’s stifling hot – hotter than anywhere else we’ve been so far. Yet the people are still running around, shuffling, hawking, selling their trade. Walking to school, to work, or just idling by. The eyes, teeth, smiles of so many faces, different shapes and colors, welcome me and brighten my spirit. Malaysians, Chinese, and Indians are all mixed up, blended to perfection. One joyful combination, a feast for my eyes.

We’ve been sweating endlessly for days, drenched shirts, beads dripping from our glossy faces, hair thick with humidity. I love this weather, but it’s been a feat of strength to survive these George Town streets – quirky, vibrant, dilapidated wonders.

I am so happy here.

It’s been a rejuvenating experience to see so many lively souls, filled with smiles – toothless, gapped, gleaming white teeth – they are all so beautiful.

The elderly are kings in this town. Johnny says it must be where they come to retire. I think it’s a generation of hard working traders, craftsmen, skilled artists perfecting their craft. Grown old in body, wise in face and spirit. Old young souls riding bicycles, scooting along on mopeds and motorcycles, reading the newspaper. I watch them in wonderment, enjoying their tea and dim sum with their comrades, fellow kind warriors of this island city. Playful geezers exchanging war tales.

But modernity is not too far away. The streets are brimming with youthful electricity, street-art dripping from the crumbling walls.

The food is exquisite. “Hawker” stalls abound in a surprisingly clean and organized fashion, serving up steaming dishes to the masses of hungry locals. We must eat all day long, keep up our strength and energy to combat this booming city heat.

We have been greeted so warmly here. The locals are eager to help, practice their English, give directions, offer suggestions.  A simple smile, a nod, a wave follows me down each corner, accompanying me along the way…

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A Woman’s Right to Pack

OK, ladies. This one’s for you. For all the women out there traveling with their uber practical boyfriends or husbands. Here is a woman’s perspective on what to pack for an around-the-world trip. But before we get to down to the nitty-gritty, here is a little background on where I’m coming from.

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Top 10 Packing List for Women

Top 10 Packing Items for a Woman on the Road

Here is my packing list of the top 10 essential items  women should bring on an extended backpacking trip.

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Street-Wise in G Town

Feeling inspired. The world is filled with beauty.

A few snapshots of the art-filled streets of Penang’s bomb food and art capital! (aka George Town)

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Tourland, Thailand

Embarking on Chiang Mai’s biggest tourist route (trap) but managed to come away with a few good shots.

Karen People, Long Neck Village  Chiang Mai, Thailand

Karen People, Long Neck Village
Chiang Mai, Thailand

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An early start

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Late afternoon fishing

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Day at the office

MuaakK! Elephant smooch!

MuaakK! Elephant smooch!

 

Sunday’s in Ubud

I woke up this morning in our beautiful Ubud home feeling happy and energized, excited for the day. I scurried down the steps to the first floor, bursting open the front door to find golden sunlight flooding the airy space. Brilliant rays sparkled across the face of the big Buddha statue that sits peacefully in our entryway.

The electric green plants gleamed at me, and I felt compelled to turn on the music and just dance into the new day. Inspired, I clicked on our wedding song, “Te Doy la Vida” by Compay Segundo.

Johnny had only just awoken, and groggily shuffled down the steps. I found him in the bathroom sitting on the side of the bathtub; frothy toothbrush in mouth, tired eyes barely open. I couldn’t resist. I grabbed him tightly and in my best operatic voice bellowed out:

Te doy la vida, porque mi vida es tuya! Te entrego el alma, sedienta de ilusión! No dudes nunca que muero por quererte!! Te doy la vida, te doy el corazón!!

I felt my heart growing, filled with love and playfulness.

“It’s Sunday Dance day!!” I squealed.

The Yoga Barn has been my Ubud sanctuary for the past week. I’ve been taking a variety of classes, exploring the different traditions, learning new meditation techniques, and strengthening my yoga practice. I’d seen “Sunday Dance” on the weekly schedule and after hearing rave reviews, decided to check it out. Sunday Dance is one of the many classes offered at The Yoga Barn. But unlike the other yoga and meditation courses available, what makes Sunday Dance special is that it’s basically a massive dance party in the middle of the day. No talking allowed.

The mere idea of busting a move in broad daylight, no booze or BFS for support, made my stomach flip and flutter. But the thought of all the budding yogis and yoginis, not to mention the seasoned “gurus,” coming out to mix and mingle on the dance floor was a sight I could not miss.

So that was that. When in Ubud….go to Sunday Dance.

I somehow managed to convince Johnny to come with me. When we arrived, I knew we were in for an experience. Johnny realized it too, and immediately backed out.

“No, I’m not going in there. I can’t do it. This isn’t my thing.”

“Oh, c’mon, Johnny!!” I pleaded. “Just give it a chance!”

But before I could even convince my own self to stay, he was out of there. Passed the door, down the steps, Johnny had high-tailed it.

“I’ll meet you in an hour-and-half at the Cafe!” he yelled up to me.

So there I was. Alone. Standing in the doorway, in limbo, while the hula-hoopers, long haired nymphs, and shirtless new-agers streamed in around me. I took a deep breath, and waltzed in. When in Ubud…..

I found an open spot in the back of the room where I could safely sway and get into the groove. Soon enough, there were bodies and souls twirling and twisting all around me. The DJ spun a mix of tribal, uptempo beats splashed with some psychedelic ambient sounds. Basically a crazy free-for-all, sweat flying, hips swaying, arms soaring. Wet forms oozed onto the floor, while others floated, suspended in a trance-like state. Sharp cries echoed in the room, vigorous clapping, banging and jumping, followed by slow contorting waves.

I danced in awe of everyone around me. I fought the urge to stare, to laugh, to gasp. I closed my eyes, feeling the music and the energy around me. I knew that there was nothing I could do that would be out of place here. I could move in any way I felt like and it would be welcomed into this mix of motion surrounding me. At that moment, I let myself go. I danced fearlessly for about 30 minutes. I didn’t burst into radiant life crystals or some other tripped out transcendental experience.

Better yet, I danced and just had fun. Exactly right for me.

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